Shopping for quality gold jewelry can get complicated. With all of the jargon and different types of gold on the market, there’s a lot to decipher. Solid gold, gold vermeil, gold-filled, gold-plated – what does it all mean? Read on and you’ll be a pro in no time.
The difference between solid gold, gold vermeil, gold-filled and gold-plated lies in how much gold you’re actually getting, and which other metals the gold is combined (aka alloyed) with. The higher the gold content, the higher the price. Gold-plated is typically the cheapest, while solid gold is the most expensive.
Gold Karats and Purity Standards
Gold purity is measured in karats (not to be confused with carat, which measures the weight of a gemstone). The karat scale starts at 9k (37.5% gold) and goes up to 24k (pure gold). Most jewelry ranges from 10k to 22k.
24k jewelry is rare because it’s not practical. Pure gold is very soft and can be easily scratched or dented, even from a human bite. That’s why old-time gold prospectors bit down on their coins to test for authenticity, and Olympic athletes bite their medals!
To increase strength, pure gold is alloyed (aka mixed) with other metals like silver, copper, nickel and zinc. The percentage of pure gold in the mixture determines the karat rating.
Guidelines for Labeling Gold Jewelry
The Federal Trade Commission has a set of guidelines for describing gold, silver and platinum content to uphold transparency in the jewelry market. The guidelines state that objects described as ‘Gold Plated’ and ‘Gold Filled’ must be coated with an alloy of 10k or finer, with differing requirements for the thickness of the coatings. The thickness of gold coatings in jewelry is measured in microns. For reference, a standard sheet of paper is 100 microns thick, and the average strand of human hair ranges from 50-100 microns.
Gold-Plated Jewelry
Gold-plated pieces have a thin layer of gold on top of another metal, which is often brass. This gold layer is extremely thin – .175 microns at minimum. Some higher-end gold-plated pieces have layers that are up to 3-5 microns thick, but that’s still very thin.
All in all, gold-plated jewelry is the cheapest and lowest in quality. Buying a gold-plated piece is a gamble because most makers don’t specify how thick the gold plating is. A gold-plated ring, for example, could hold up for years, or the gold plating could wear off in a matter of months. The worst-case scenario is some skin irritation if a cheaper base metal is used.
Gold-Filled Jewelry
Gold-filled jewelry, also known as rolled gold, is a step up from gold-plated because it has a thicker layer of gold. The FTC states that items labeled ‘Gold Filled’ must have a gold plate of at least 10k that is soldered or mechanically attached to the base metal. The plating must comprise 1/20 of the weight of the entire piece. While gold-filled jewelry has a higher gold content than gold-plated, it’s still a relatively small amount of precious metal.
Gold Vermeil
Gold vermeil (pronounced ver-may) is also a top layer of gold attached to a base, but the base is sterling silver, which is much nicer than cheaper metals like brass, nickel, zinc, etc. To be called ‘Vermeil,’ jewelry must be made of a sterling silver base that is coated (or plated) with a gold alloy of 10k or finer. The gold coating must have a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns. Vermeil stands out because it contains more than one precious metal, which raises the value. Silver and gold can make a beautiful and durable combination.
Solid Gold
Solid gold has a richer, heavier feel than plated alternatives, but remember – “solid gold” jewelry still contains other metals because pure gold is too soft on its own. Gold alloys can create a variety of different colors aside from the classic yellow, like rose gold, white gold, and even green gold.
Solid gold jewelry of at least 10 karats is typically stamped with a karat mark. The National Gold and Silver Marking Act of 1906 requires all solid gold jewelry of 10K or higher to be labeled with its purity. However, some handmade pieces may lack a stamp, and vintage jewelry made before 1906 may also be unstamped.
14k (58.3% gold) is the most popular choice for solid gold jewelry. It’s more affordable than higher-karat options, but still retains all of gold’s great properties (shine, durability, resistance to tarnish, biocompatibility, etc.). Solid gold jewelry will last a lifetime if not longer!
Selling Gold Jewelry
Understanding gold types is key to getting a fair price, whether you’re buying or selling jewelry.If you happen to own some gold jewelry that’s broken, mismatched or just not your style, selling it could be a smart move – especially with today’s gold prices.
With the exception of pieces that are rare or antique, most gold jewelry is appraised on its scrap value, meaning its worth is determined by the weight and purity of the gold rather than its design or brand.
In this case, selling directly to a precious metals refinery like Garfield ensures that you’ll get the highest possible payment from your items. Although cash-for-gold stores and pawn shops offer cash on the spot, they act as middlemen who will ultimately sell your gold to a refinery. This means they must underpay you to protect their own margins.
Refine with Garfield for the Best Return
Garfield Refining has specialized in refining services for jewelers and individual sellers since 1892. Our technicians perform a melt and assay on all items to determine the exact precious metal quantities. Payments are based on the current market prices of each metal, guaranteeing the best returns for our clients.
We accept a variety of gold, silver, platinum and palladium items beyond jewelry, from flatware to trinkets, buttons, cufflinks, dental scrap, coins and more. And if you’re a precious metals investor, we also offer the option to exchange the value of your items for bullion!
Ready to sell your precious metal scrap? Get started with a free shipping label! Thinking about investing in gold or silver? Browse or bullion selection.